Croatian island time

After my hiking trip to Achensee and my massive sightseeing trips to Verbania and Milan, I took a real holiday. No phone, just reading books, drinking wine, looking at medieval architecture, and swimming in the sea. Real island time!

But I didn’t go alone! I met Jana in Split! She was still on her bike trip from Athens to Vienna and already in Croatia. On the ferry, we discussed strategies for world domination and developed half a business plan for virtual cruises. The usual.

We had decided to go to quaint little Korcula, where Jana picked out the absolute bestest Airbnb. It was the perfect place!

I had everything: A fully stocked, beautiful kitchen, a balcony with a view, quirky 70’s decor, the cutest little staircase, and colorful tiles.

The host, Petra, runs her Airbnb like a mini hostel with four adorable color-coded rooms. She’s a really lovely, cool and artsy person and you can feel she puts a lot of heart into this project. She even took us to the beach and shopping! Such a great host!

We were honored to be her first guests ever! And we got the yellow room that also contains some of her artwork. Petra greeted us with pine rakia and sugar coated almonds when we arrived.  The rakia, for the record, was some of the best liquor that I ever had. And I have taken it upon me to sample many a beverage.

The apartment also came with a prime reading spot, which I occupied immediately.

Take what you can get, give nothing back! Old pirate proverb.

Also Jana needed wifi to do her work and the signal didn’t quite reach the balcony, so she preferred the kitchen table, while I didn’t want anything to do with the online world for a week aaaaand it worked out perfectly. We just compliment each other.

I was reading Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by one of my absolute favorite authors, Barbara Kingsolver. It made me long for a proper vegetable garden again. And reminded me of the Slow Food initiative, check it out.

Now, I am really sorry to tell you this, but Korcula town is gorgeous. Just accept this feeling of envy and let it go, so I can move on to show you some more pictures.

This was our street.

And the whole rest of the town looks just as cute.

I even found another lovely reading spot:

And I just love this tower!

Now here’s what I think went through the architect’s head during construction:

We need a tower here! No wait… we actually need a street, so let’s slice a piece off that tower. No wait… uhm, well, now we can’t reach the tower anymore… we need to build a bridge! Behold!!! The mighty tower-street-bridge! Bwahahaha!

The rest of the island looks just as beautiful.

So I did a lot of this:

We walked quite a bit to get to that beach though, so I wasn’t all lazy all the time. The walk even offered some more interesting motifs:

We also got to hang out with Petra and our Swiss neighbors from the green room for a day:

While “dangling my soul” on Lumbarda beach, I also got into podcasts. It’s just the perfect beach activity: lounge and listen.

I discovered Anthropocene Reviewed, The Habitat, and Science Vs. for me.

Food-wise, we were happy too. We used the kitchen to make easy tasty dinners involving the local produce.

What you cannot see here, is the magic ingredient: a fantastic, lightly green local olive oil we bought at the “Flavors of Korcula” market. I could drink that stuff, marinate myself in it and put it into a scent diffuser, it’s just so delicious.

They also offered pickled samphire (a seagrass-like vegetable that grows on the coast), figs, honey, amazing peaches, and, of course, wine.

This one was my silky smooth favorite:

Other drinks included the light and tasty local beer:

And the local coke:

We also took ourselves out to dinner once, for a pogaca “maslina” and some local cheese at Konoba Maslina.

Another local specialty is something completely non-food-ralated: the Moreska sword dance.

I have never seen anything like it. When those guys cross swords, sparks fly. It was VERY impressive. I don’t even want to think about how many calories one performance costs. Maybe I should take up sword dancing as a work-out?

Of course, we had to watch some soccer, Croatia vs. Russia. It was on on our last island night!

The morning after, we took Petra to a lovely little pancake shop. They had the best flavors. I was really intrigued by a white chocolate-cornflakes-crepe-situation. And the cutest presentation!

And then we had to go back to the mainland.

We had two days in Split ahead of us before we would have to part ways again. We stayed at a hostel and walked around this gem of an old town.

Part of the city is the old Diocletian Palace. What is left of it, is pretty much just the former basement. But even that is huge! The rest of the palace must have been ginormous.

That’s the dude, by the way.

Now you can wander around the maze of the palace, the shops, galleries and bars. It feel like a real-life game of “crazy labyrinth“.

You can even access the catacombs where the Ancient Ones lie in wait, powerful even in their slumber.

Or so Jana tells me, I don’t know the first thing about those things.

The whole city was really packed, though, so consider going in the off-season.

We spent our last night having some drinks at Ghetto bar, but pretty much any place there is interesting or weird or beautiful.

And then it was already time to go home! At least for me, Jana had to get back on the road and finish her trip to Vienna.

What’s so funny about the end of a holiday?

Airline humor.


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